Hermanus is located in the Western Cape region of South Africa on the coast of the Indian Ocean. Though a small town, boasting less than 26,000 in population, it has a big town attitude and there is good reason for it.
It doesn’t generate the commerce of a “London,” New York” or “Johannesburg” but when it comes to natural attractions it rules. With a great variety of things to do and places to go, as well as some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, it is one of the best locations to visit in South Africa. There may be places in this world just as unusual but I doubt any are as accessible as Hermanus. Try driving up the Himalayas or into the jungles of Borneo sometime.
Just over a hundred kilometers from the Cape Town International airport Hermanus can be reached by two well paved routes either of which is beautiful in its own right. The inland route takes you through winding mountain roads scattered with old country villages, shops, olive groves and vineyards.
The coastal route is a little longer and must be driven more slowly but is well worth the extra time. Too say it follows the coast is misleading. The land comes out of the ocean so vertically in spots you think you’re traveling “on” rather than “by” the ocean. It must have taken great fetes of engineering to install the road.
The coast line is called the “Whale Coast” but the name, though true, is a bit narrow. The prevalence of whales is only one of the many features characterizing the region. The area is covered with indigenous plant life, generally referred to as Fynbos, found naturally occurring nowhere else in the world and there are thousands of species to view.
On top of that you may come across baboon, small buck, a great variety of bird life, penguins and, obviously, whale not too mention…again…some of the most breathtaking scenery to be found anywhere. The route is dotted with nature reserves and conservancies open to the public for walking, driving or staying over. And all of that within a sixty-kilometer stretch. The fact that Hermanus provides the best land-based whale viewing anywhere in the world is only one of many natural qualities that make it inviting.
True to any mountainous region the terrain is strewn with rock. Most of the coastline is jagged and cliff-like and along much of the land side you find rock formations jutting right out of the ground, which range in size from small roundish boulders to oblong structures as high as two stories with enough width and length to equal the floor space of a moderate bedroom. Some homes have been artistically arranged amongst these formations.
Hermanus is kind of the end-point of the journey but it is hardly “the end.” Once there, you are surrounded on one side by mountains and by the ocean on the other but the apparent geographical restriction means little. Possible activities are endless: kayaking, beach swimming, scuba diving, fishing, hiking, running and I’ve even seen cyclists riding up and down the roads. I don’t recommend the cycling. The roads aren’t that big and drivers, local or visiting, sometimes act like Indy racers. Of course, swimming does offer potential encounters with great whites. Pick your poison. Fortunately, there is off road cycling and cage diving for the more sensibly minded.
The resident natural beauty has become inspiration for countless artists who have moved to the area and it is no surprise that Hermanus is now known as the art capital of South Africa. There are art shops everywhere. The pottery gallery shown here is located in Betty’s Bay and is one we have browsed on each visit. We also have pieces of pottery as mementos of each trip.
There’s also free wine tasting at several fancy estates along a 10 kilometer stretch of road running directly out of Hermanus (R320) through the Hemel en Aarde Valley (Afrikaans for Heaven and Earth). The estates also have restaurants that serve world class cuisine, are tastefully decorated and some provide great views through the valley all the way to the coast. The one pictured here goes by the name “Heaven!” We ate there. The name is appropriate.
Whales are most active in August and September but can be seen as early as June or July and as late as February or March. The beautiful views surrounding Hermanus, however, never go away and there is plenty to do otherwise.
Those looking to relax can do so in many ways. There is a great variety of restaurants in which to leisurely eat while viewing whale, or coastal/mountain scenery should there be no whales to watch.
If the budget is thin, not too worry. There are many shops – up market and individually owned – in which to buy prepared meals or supplies to prepare your own and a campsite close to Hermanus provides alternative accommodation. There are also many spots designed for free public viewing with benches and parking. By the way, whale viewing is possible for several hundred kilometers along the coast but why travel so far when the best viewing occurs in one short stretch.
While in Hermanus, if you begin hankering for big town activities there is a very large well stocked mall, no more than 75 kilometers away and Cape Town isn’t much farther than that. It really does offer something for every taste.
• Following are several links to locate accommodation: Uncover the Cape, Hermanus Esplanade and Hermanus Accommodation.
• For a great listing of activities go here.
The bottom line is, you will never be bored in Hermanus. Don’t miss the chance to visit. You’ll be sorry if you do.
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